I took my first-ever cruise to the eastern Mediterranean in late June/early July of 2023. We saw Istanbul and a bunch of Greek history before ending in Athens and seeing the temple of Athena.
Istanbul, June 30 & July 1
We arrived the day before the cruise started. Partially to give us some cushion if our flight got delayed, and partially to see Istanbul before getting on the boat and leaving. Everything was in the older section of town, about as far away from the airport as it's possible to get while still being in Istanbul (not Constantinople).
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A model of Topkeki Palace, inside the actual Topkeki Palace.
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The palace part of the palace, hidden behind some glare and a tourist.
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I really wish I'd done this when I got home, I have no idea why I took a picture of a pillar any more.
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Some very cool tiles.
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Looking down at the Bosphorus Strait as it flows into the Sea of Marmara.
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The Fountain of Sultan Ahmed III, outside the Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia).
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I think this is the Blue Mosque, given that we were right next to the Ayasofya at the time I took this.
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This one is the Ayasofya.
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Having breakfast and looking out at the strait again.
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There's a bit of a line to get in. Turns out the world-famous mosque is a tourist attraction.
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The entryway, where you have to take your shoes off, if I'm remembering right.
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The main room of the mosque. The large signs on either side of the... indentation... say "Allah" and "Mohammed" assuming I haven't forgotten. I don't know which is which.
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More of the large signs around the main room. I think these were Mohammed's closest followers?
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Some of the architecture and the lights they have to light the place.
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I specifically asked our tour guide what this little lifeguard-chair-looking thing was, and now I can't remember his answer.
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Looking straight up into the dome.
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Back outside and looking at the Blue Mosque again.
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Fountains near the hippodrome.
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The German Fountain.
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The Obelisk of Theodosius.
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Inscription at the bottom. Too bad some dumbass covered part of the shot with his finger. The full text is:
DIFFICILIS QVONDAM DOMINIS PARERE SERENIS
IVSSVS ET EXTINCTIS PALMAM PORTARE TYRANNIS
OMNIA THEODOSIO CEDVNT SVBOLIQVE PERENNI
TER DENIS SIC VICTVS EGO DOMITVSQVE DIEBVS
IVDICE SVB PROCLO SVPERAS ELATVS AD AVRAS
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The full obelisk again.
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The base of the Serpent Column.
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The cruise ship up close at the port of Istanbul.
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Still on the European side, looking across the Golden Horn to where we'd been. The Ayasofya is on the left. At least I think that's what I'm looking at, I can't remember where exactly the boat was, or where I was looking.
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A cool building, I don't know what it is.
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I think I was wrong before, this looks more like the Ayasofya.
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Sailing out of Istanbul.
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Other ships in the Bosphorus.
Çanakkale, July 2
After leaving Istanbul we sailed through the Sea of Marmara down the Dardanelles to Çanakkale near the mouth of the strait. The modern city is near both Assos, the home of Aristotle, and Troy.
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Pulling into port in Çanakkale.
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Our neighbor didn't quite have the amenities we did.
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We're standing on the Behramkale Bridge, which was built sometime in the Middle Ages. Its modern replacement is right next to it.
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The old bridge.
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And looking under.
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Friggin' toolbag, etc.
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Assos is on the southern coast of the Biga Peninsula, and is where Aristotle was born in 384 BCE.
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The entrance to the historical site and acropolis (not The Acropolis, that's in Athens, but every Greek city had a hilltop temple.)
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Looking out over the nearby town of Behram.
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The Who's Who of Assos.
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Over the Aegean you can see the Greek island of Lesbos.
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The remains of the temple complex.
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A better view of Lesbos (settle down).
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A model of how the Temple of Athena would have looked two thousand years ago.
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In the temple. walking around with all the other folks.
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The Turkish flag at the highest point on the hill. Just in case you forgot where you were.
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After Assos we went down to the coast for a wine tasting. Given that I don't really like wine I'll let you guess how that went for me.
Kavala, July 3
Our first stop in Greece was Kavala, on the north coast of the Aegean.
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A new day, and now we're in Greece. This is Kavala, who were/are big in the tobacco trade. They have their own tobacco museum.
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There's a bit more to it than Çanakkale, and the pier is right downtown.
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Our first stop was a trail along the Nestos River.
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And here's the river.
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When I say the trail was along the river, I meant it.
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Beautiful scenery.
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A railroad tunnel. I'm pretty sure that line is still in use.
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After that we took a walk around the city of Xanthi. This clock is in the center of town in the Platia Dimokratias.
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The Church of St. Vlasiosin. Apparently also called the Church of St. Blaise. Had to do a reverse image search to track this one down.
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The Manos Hadjidakis Residence is a museum for one of Greece's most famous composers.
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The House of Shadow is a neat little art museum that we didn't get a chance to go into.
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Another cool building that I'm not going to try to find.
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A city park where we walked to wait for the tour bus.
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Back on the boat.
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Kavala from the walking deck.
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I think that was our last look at Kavala as we sailed toward Thessaloniki.
Thessaloniki, July 4
Next up was Thessaloniki, a larger city near where the Greek peninsula starts. It's also near Vergina, where Alexander the Great built his father's tomb.
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And here we are at the port of Thessaloniki.
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"Macedonia Passenger Terminal" -- Greeks get touchy about the name Macedonia.
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Downtown Thessaloniki.
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The beautiful scenery of a Greek... parking lot. And the Flying Fickle Finger of Fate.
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Me, July 2023: "This building looks cool."
Google, September 2024: "It's the Thessaloniki YMCA."
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This baby Space Needle is the OTE Tower.
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A gravestone on display in the museum in Vergina.
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Pottery. This stuff all comes from the 300s BCE.
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More gravestones.
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The museum at Vergina was set up at the location of the burial site for Alexander the Great's father. This is a model of the mound the tomb was hidden under.
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Grave marker.
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Model of a burial vault.
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I can't remember if this is a replica of a tomb, or a real one that was brought in.
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"Tomb 4" kind of makes it seem like it's real stuff.
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More about the tomb.
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A "heroon" is the tomb of a hero.
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More about the heroon.
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Paintings from the tomb walls.
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Artifacts, for sure. Maybe from burials?
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More stuff.
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I remember this one being important, but I can't remember why. Maybe it's Alexander the Great's father?
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The main entry. Obviously as close as you can get to it.
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Phillip II. Pretty sure that was Alexander's father.
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A... mural? Diorama? Frieze? From the tomb that they were able to recover.
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Armor.
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Lots of detail on those little pieces. I think that one is supposed to be Alexander, but damn if I can remember.
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Shiny.
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I kept coming back to this, since it's the whole reason that museum exists.
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Pictures of paintings from the inside of the tomb.
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A tombstone. I can't remember what the painted-on ribbon was for.
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Several more stones (the previous one is on the left).
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A little shrine outside the museum.
Volos, July 5
Moving south along the coast, our next stop was Volos. It was smaller than Thessaloniki but looked to have more of a downtown than Kavala. There's a smaller town called Makrinitsa up the hills from downtown.
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A new day, now at a local museum in Volos. Volos was my favorite stop, I dug it for some reason.
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I don't think these are from tombs, these are general archaeological sites from the area.
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An example of stratification.
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There are tombs, of course. And they go back quite a way.
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Archaeological sites around Volos.
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Pottery.
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I wish that big sign had also been in English.
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A living space, I think.
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A street/alley of some kind.
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An amphora.
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Tablets with ancient Greek on them.
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Coins.
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Little figurines and some jewelry.
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Model of a house.
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A kiln, I think.
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Engravings. Our tour guide was narrating this all for us, I wish I'd recorded it.
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A tombstone.
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And the red ribbon again. I wish I could remember what it was for. Google doesn't turn up anything.
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Bust of Aphrodite.
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After the museum we went outside for a look at the gulf that Volos sits at the end of.
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Art installation.
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Then we went up into the hills outside of town to see Makrinitsa. This is looking back down on Volos. You can spot the ship if you zoom in.
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A small museum in Makrinitsa.
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And a fountain.
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That's a street. Very Pittsburghian.
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A little Greek Orthodox chapel.
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Jesus with the head of John the Baptist.
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Getting ready to leave port.
Syros, July 6
After that we went to the island of Syros in the Cyclades.
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Our next port, Ermoupoli, on the island of Syros.
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The hills come right down to the shore.
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A big Orthodox church is one of the highest buildings in town.
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The view from the dock.
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More of town, and a finger.
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Markos Vamvakaris, a famous Greek musician that was born in Ano Syros, now part of Ermoupoli.
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The central plaza, with a statue of Andreas Miaoulis, a major figure from the Greek War of Independence.
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Another bust near the plaza. Theophilos Kairis, another big name in the war of independence.
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There's a little museum of industry on the island. This is one of the displays there.
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Propeller from a small ship.
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A marine diesel engine.
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More boat engine stuff. How odd for an island.
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Blueprints of... something.
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This guy, Elias Kechayas, was presumably big in shipping, but googling that name doesn't turn up anything.
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Blueprint of the first electrical grid on the island.
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Enfield Automotive built cars on Syros during the oil crisis in the 70s.
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Electric cars.
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Back on the ship for lunch, looking around at the nearby islands.
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Went for a little walk afterwards, this is the Church of St. Nicholas.
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The hills here are pretty steep, and offer some really neat views.
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Just a cool-looking building.
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This neat-looking building is an actual historical landmark. Let me just translate what's on Google Maps and... "Neoclassical building (year of construction 1886)". At least I know the year it's from.
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Looking at the Aegean again.
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And back down to the pier.
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The dumb things I convince my friends to go along with. We're walking up the "countless steps" to some church I can't remember the name of and can't find online.
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Where we'd come from. You can see it was a while before I whipped out the phone.
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That's not where we're going. That's the Church of the Resurrection. Lots of churches on Syros.
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This is where we were going, Church of St. Sebastian. Just for the sake of having made it to the top of the hill.
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Ermopouli and the ship.
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I took lots of pictures here. I wanted proof, after what I'd put myself through.
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The frustrating part of this is, Google Images can find just about every picture I took here. And they're all labeled, "Church in Ano Syros". Nobody anywhere ever bothered writing down the name, I guess. I finally asked my friend who I was on the cruise with if they remembered, and they were able to find it where I couldn't.
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A memorial outside the church that I also can't find online anywhere. No street view, because no streets -- it's all walkways and alleys.
Mykonos, July 7
Our last day out took us to Mykonos, another island in the Cyclades, and from there we visited Delos, a very old set of ruins in the center of the island group.
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At Mykonos.
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The port isn't big enough for the boat. Therefore, we needed a ride in.
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Looking at Mykonos before getting on the little boat.
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After catching a ferry, arriving at Delos.
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This is in kind of the "downtown" area of Delos. Lots of larger ruins from things like temples and trade. And I've forgotten pretty much all of it.
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Agora of the Competaliasts.
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Ruins. And a cat.
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Carving on one of the stones.
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A small temple on the hill.
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Another carving, on the "base of the Colossus".
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More ruins.
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The guardians' house, if I remember right.
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More ruins.
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A shop stall, if I remember right.
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Some columns.
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And a lion.
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More lions.
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A very bad selfie with a lion.
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More from the terrace of lions.
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A shop.
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A row of them, with the museum in the background.
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(Some of) a statue.
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Pretty sure those are exactly what we think they are.
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Y HALLO THAR
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Back to the ruins.
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We didn't climb that hill, partly because of time, and partially because we didn't want to die from the heat.
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A wider look at the downtown area.
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A bench. (You're not allowed to sit on the bench.)
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More ruins. It can be kind of hard (at least for me) to try to piece it all together and get an idea of how it looked 2500 years ago.
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Really neat tile work. This is getting away from the downtown, into a residential area. So these would all have been houses.
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They had multi-story buildings.
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More tile work.
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Our guide explaining what this was for. Given the spout it was for fluids, but I can't remember what.
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Inside a row of houses.
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Looking back to the harbor again, downtown is out of frame to the right. The walkway/street is on the other side of the wall.
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More tile work inside that house that I don't think we were allowed to go in.
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The amphitheater.
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Sound carries pretty well here, our guide had us sit in the first few rows of seats and talked from the middle of the stage. We heard him just fine.
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Back to Mykonos. Pretty sure this is another really old building, given the sign next to it.
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More ruins on Mykonos.
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And back to the new (relatively speaking).
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The "streets" here are almost all walkways that loop back on each other and cross at weird angles. Same as it's been since people settled here.
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Climbing up a hill toward some windmills.
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The Panagia Paraportiani. It's five conjoined churches each dedicated to a saint, I don't know which saint's church this one is.
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Back to the old pier to look at the city.
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The last sunset we'd get on board.
Athens, July 8 & 9
Finally we docked in Athens where we unloaded and had a day to visit before our flight home the next morning.
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In Athens now. We got in early and had to GTFO. This is on the walk up to the Acropolis.
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A smaller temple.
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In line now. I think we had to wait for it to open, then for the movement to make its way back to us.
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I can't remember where we were standing at this point (besides "in line") so I'm having trouble finding that bit of ruin on the map.
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A much more intact amphitheater than we saw at Delos. The Odeon of Herodes Atticus.
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They reconstructed the seating area, but the stage is original.
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And Athens beyond.
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Thank you, past me, for giving current-me a location and direction. That thing I was looking at before was the Philopappos Monument.
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Selfie.
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We're on the hilltop now. Which they basically flattened and filled in to make the temple area.
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The Temple of Athena (what people usually call the Acropolis).
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The Erectheion.
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And a dork standing in front of it.
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Temple of Athena.
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More of me.
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The Porch of the Caryatids, attached to the Erectheion.
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Looking out over the city.
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The Panathenaic Stadium.
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Athens and the Aegean.
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Heading down the hill, on the way to the museum.
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Looking at where they shored up the hillside centuries (millennia?) ago.
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A couple statues in the entryway of the Acropolis Museum.
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Stuff.
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Half a stuff.
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That's the amphitheater from before, so I guess the other name was the guy who had it built, in honor of Dionysis.
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Heracles becoming a god.
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Then someone came over sand told me you can't take pictures in there. So when lunchtime rolled around I went out on the balcony for another shot of the real deal.
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The area, including the Panathenaic Stadium, in the part of the museum you're allowed to take pictures in.
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Later on, at the National Archaeological Museum not too far from the hotel.
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I thought about taking a cab to this place while I was on Syros. Kinda glad I didn't.
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We didn't go to Mycenae, it's on the Peloponnesian peninsula and we stayed om the east coast.
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A good boy.
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Bust of Hadrian.
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The front of the building.
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Flying over Istanbul to transfer to our flight home. I don't know what's up with the Istanbul airport, but I'm pretty sure we spent more time on the ground taxiing than we did flying.